Highlander outfit
The difference of the outfit also has its source in the culture brought from the southern Carpathians. Unfortunately, the sudden popularity of the Tatra Mountains and the highlanders' region, awakened in the 19th century. changed the appearance and behavior of highlanders, revealing rather their negative qualities. An example of such changes is, the most susceptible to fashion, female outfit. Originally dark skirts, white wound, the dark bandana have been replaced with an imitation of a bright one, so the "richer" Krakow costume. Only a corset, its ornament and a heart-shaped ornament, that is, specific clogs made of one piece of free leather, they testify to a specific belonging.
Men's attire also underwent a metamorphosis at the turn of the century to manifest a greater richness of ornaments, although its basic elements have remained. Trousers – trousers, White, narrow at the bottom, with characteristic side slits on the legs fastened in case of frost – they are so long, to cover the tops of the feet. The length was the result of onuca's "out of fashion". Unlike other pants, these do not have a single fly, but two, so-called. buttresses, covered with special flaps – lame, long enough, to throw their free ends out through the belt.
The pants are characterized by an abundance of ornaments today – digits. There are tapes sewn along the outer sides of the legs and through the buttocks, i.e. stripes. The most visible parzenice – based on the central theme of the heart or star, surrounded by embroidered loop patterns – covering the front of the pants up to the top of the legs. The name may be derived from the word to brew, brew – stain, pollute, because the task of parzenice was to cover the places exposed to quick soiling of white trousers during farm work. According to ethnographers, Highlander Parzenice was built only in the 19th century. influenced by the Zakopane style, hence the presence of foreign elements in them: propagated by Stanisław Witkiewicz on nine-legged trees or oak leaves. Originally, the decorations of the pants were limited to the hem of the struts, in the form of narrow strings, modest diamond-shaped ornaments called flints, which now top the parzenice from below, and to the so-called. doggies or myrtles, i.e. symmetrical loops on both sides of the leg tape.
The wide-sleeved shirt was originally very short, you can also find them in Slovakia and the southern Carpathians. It only covered her breasts, while the belly was secured with a tall one, a distinctive belt (headband) called "Hungarian" or "Shepherd", for it was a sign of the dignity of a shepherd. Fastened on 3 the 5 copper buckles, on the side it was equipped with special pockets for money. These belts, unheard of in other regions of Poland, while common in the Carpathians, They were worn on a daily basis to secure the abdomen exposed to work; they were also a substitute for armor among robbers.
Serdak is a sheepskin coat without sleeves, long below the waist, preferably from black sheep fur, the face of which was dyed brown and covered with embroidery. During the rain, it was turned with its hair on top, similarly in great heat. As noticed by tourists coming to Zakopane, serdakas were worn regardless of the weather, in winter and summer. To, which is now sold at marketplaces in Nowy Targ as "highland sheepskin coats", is an inept imitation of the so-called. "Białczański sheepskin coats” – elaborate women's heels with sleeves.
An extremely characteristic element of the highlander's outfit is the outer garment known as a cucha or gunia. Gunia used to be a term for a piece of woolen cloth, which was thrown over shoulders in the rain instead of leather. It turned into a kind of short jacket in Podhale, decorated along the edges with a green cloth stripe, worn, except in great frost, and shit – slung over the shoulders and held only with a clasp or more often with a ribbon threaded through the suits – buttonholes. Of course, the chain has no buttons and cannot be tightened tightly. Traditionally, white cuchy is worn by Tatra highlanders, brown and from Podhale. The name of Biały and Czarny Dunajec comes from the color of the cucha worn by the inhabitants of these villages. According to some ethnographers, the white color of the cucha was a later innovation of the Zakopane inhabitants, wanting to dazzle with the richness and splendor of the outfit. Despite the fact that the chain is a representative outfit, festive, in winter, old clothes were worn constantly, also in the workaround.